Hello, I’m glad that this blog caught your eye. And since, it did… Let me make a Sherlock Holmes like guess, either your heard about Photography and are interested in it or perhaps you would definetely enjoy trying this as a new hobby and become passionate about it!
Alright, I have to say since I’m talking about this very topic… Yes, I am interested in Photograhpy and I am a Photographer but unfortunatly, not a Professional one. But I am a great Photographer!
When it lands on a topic such as Photography, There are different topics you might like,
In my opinion, I mostly Photograph ‘The Nature’ but anything in the world could be Photographed like said “A good photograph is one that communicates a fact, touches the heart and leaves the viewer a changed person for having seen it…”
Flowers, Trees , some times it could be a monument or a christmas tree that’s a decoration around the mall. Photography could also be photographing people, or a scenary.
Well, here’s some details! About, different topics to Photograph and Techniques to ace the snaps.
Wildlife In The Landscape
When you think of wildlife photography, you probably suffer from lens lust as I do, dreaming of that 600mm ƒ/4 super telephoto lens. You envision frame-filling action photos of soaring bald eagles and snarling African lions. But you can create great images that include wildlife subjects without those big, heavy and expensive lenses. Instead, expand your visual horizons. When your landscape composition includes a wildlife subject, you can use a shorter, smaller, less-expensive lens and make the animal just one element of the overall image that includes the surrounding habitat or landscape. These images can be as striking as frame-filling wildlife portraits while also giving the viewer an entirely different feel for the subject matter of your image.
Use your wide-range zoom lens to back off from those frame-filling wildlife portraits and increase your depth-of-field to include the background or surroundings. Now the viewer can tie your wildlife subject to a specific location and see where the animal lives. Including the surrounding fir trees and geyser eruptions of steam on a wintery morning in my photograph of bison shows these animals coping with tough conditions and helps the viewer identify the location as Yellowstone National Park.
The opposite is also true. You can add a wild animal that inhabits known locations to your landscape composition to help the viewer understand where the image was taken. An image of yellow fever trees in an open landscape doesn’t tell the viewer the location. An African elephant in the image.
The great flexibility of wide-range medium telephoto lenses improves your chances of being able to quickly adapt to changing conditions and capture that great shot. Lenses like the 28-300mm mentioned previously are excellent choices when reasonably close to your subject. Other, longer “reach” zoom telephotos like the Sigma 50-500mm work equally well when your subjects are farther away, as in my photo of a wild gray wolf in the Northwest Territories of Canada. Using the zoom capability of the lens enabled me to capture intimate images as the wolves roamed their taiga forest home.
To freeze action, you’ll need ISO 400+ and a fast shutter speed. You might find that if your images look pretty good in-camera, shooting jpegs might be a good idea. This allows your memory card to record them faster. Choose Shutter Priority (S) mode as this allows you to focus on the shutter speed.
Capturing the action of a thrilling sports event, whether it is football, rugby league, soccer, tennis and everything in between, is a wonderful feeling for all involved. But just how can we get those shots we see in the magazines and newspapers?
Here’s top 10 tips on sports photography for beginners, hopefully improving your sports photos dramatically!
Have a lens or zoom range that is AT LEAST 200mm.
A focal length greater than 200mm is obviously a lot better as it will allow you to get close to the action and without being able to zoom in, you won’t be able to isolate any of your subjects.
This is a common mistake made by amateur photographers. They will usually set their camera in full automatic mode or a pre-mode labelled “sports” or “action”. While these may work OK on occasions, to really take to the next level you need to use a semi-manual mode.
In sports photography, you want to ensure that the shutter speed on your camera is fast enough to capture the quick moving bodies of the athletes. A shutter speed of at least 1/500th of a second is required to freeze movement. Try not to go below 1/500th of a second.
In order for the camera to keep up with the fast movements we want to set it to continually focus on our subject or subjects rather than lock on to one spot. On top of this, we must also set our camera to take multiple images, usually referred to as “frames per second” or “burst”. Locate both of these on your camera and ensure that they are switched ON when shooting sports. If you have the option to set how many frames per second you would like your camera to take, always set it to the maximum whether it be 3, 4, 5 or more photos a second. This increases our chances of capturing that money shot.
The best thing you can do is to position yourself with the sun behind your back. This ensures that a lot of light is hitting your subject out on the field of play, which reverts back to letting as much light in as possible and freezing the action with those fast shutter speeds. It is also helpful if you know a lot about the sport you are taking photos of as anticipating where the ball or the action may be is going to help you get the best shots possible. Follow the action with your camera, ensuring that you are zoomed in close enough to have the majority of the frame be the player themselves.
Whether it be a soccer player kicking the ball or a tennis player serving, once you have your subject in the frame you can half-hold the shutter button to focus and then hold down to fire away and capture as many photos per second as you can, thanks to the previous burst modes we have set. In this day and age with digital photography we are fortunate to be able to see our results immediately. There is absolutely no harm in finishing a sporting event with 2000 pictures on your camera!
By shooting from your knees you are capturing much more of a dramatic angle as well as letting in more of a clear background rather than other athletes and grass. The lower perspective gives the photo excellent depth and it’s a technique that you will see all pro photographers doing. Also look to purchase a monopod and use it, even if your lens and camera are not heavy. It is very beneficial in helping you keep your camera steady and balanced while shooting from different angles, particularly your knees.
LASTLY, FASHION PHOTOGRAPY
Prepare the location, props and clothes ahead of time and for a truly effective shoot be sure to communicate your agenda, objective and posing directions coherently and calmly. Fashion photography is all about clothes and beauty, so pull all the elements of the scene and the model together to reflect this.
- Find A Model For Your Shoot. The first thing you need to do is find a willing subject to pose in your photos. …
- Find An Interesting Location. …
- Use A Tripod. …
- Decide On Your Lighting Setup. …
- Use Natural Window Light. …
- Use Artificial Light.
YOU NEED LENSES, SUCH AS….
- Canon 24-70mm f/2.8. …
- Sigma 35mm ART f/1.4. …
- I absolutely love the focal length of 85mm for portraits and fashion and portrait work! …
- Sigma ART 85mm f/1.4. …
- Canon 100mm f/2.8. …
- The 70-200mm f/2.8 L telephoto zoom lens is also used for portraiture because you can decide to zoom between the 70 and 200mm.
Well, That’s all for now Town Folks, See you next blog!